Thursday, July 10, 2014

Traveling on days off

Hitchhiking in Ireland

I was given today off.  I was determined to get somewhere without asking Antoinette or Andrew for a ride anywhere...not even into the town of Athy where the bus and train stations are.  So I left on foot before anyone was up.  I started walking with my iPod in my ear and a determination to walk the 7km (5 miles) into town to get the 10:00 a.m. bus to Kilkenny.  About halfway there, it started to rain and I got soaked.  So I decided to try my hand at hitchhiking.  I mean I would pick someone up who looked like I did...soaking wet with backpack.  And so I was.  By a nice Irishman named Paul who worked in Athy.  Well, that was easy.  I was very early for the 10:00 bus so had a coffee and then just started to walk on Rt. 417 to Kilkenny.  I figured someone would pick me up and another guy did.  Michael.  Nice guy.  But was only going a short ways and would drop me off way before Kilkenny.  That was great!  I could continue walking and hitching.  Then I got picked up by Steven (73) who was just out getting milk and a newspaper.  He lived a short ways on the road to Kilkenny.  His wife's name was Monica.  He decided to take me past his house, further on into the town of Castlecomer where there was a bus stop going into Kilkenny about 13 km away and costing only 3 Euro.  I asked him  when getting home if Monica would ask him why he took so long.  He said "no".  I said she must be a nice wife.  He said "well, no, not really".  So we laughed and he let me off in Castlecomer.  I walked right past the bus stop on the road to Kilkenny and continued hitching.  I was then picked up by a woman (59), Marian, who was delivering flowers from her flower shop in Castlecomer to a wedding near Kilkenny. She had no problem taking me right into Kilkenny.  very nice lady.
I think I'll take the bus back to Athy and hitch back to Dollardstown.  My hitching experience was great but I'm not liking the looks of the sky right now.  I think I'll get the 5:00 bus back to Athy.
Kilkenny was one of the loveliest town so far.  I really like this town.  And I just drank a pint of cider.  And I and Marisa and Julia are leaving tomorrow to go up North to Canamara peninsula and Galway and the Cliffs of Moher for 3 days.  We all got tip money!!!!

Wednesday, July 2, 2014

Sightseeing in Ireland

Renting a car

When I learned I had 3 days off coming up and that a previous workawayer had rented a car for under 100Euro/week, I knew this was what I had to do to be able to see Ireland.  Taking a bus or train can end up being too costly and you're limited to small town or city destinations.  I wanted to see the picturesque peninsulas: Beara, Iveragh and Dingle.

I found that Enterprise would rent me an economy car for 47Euro for 3 days.  And they would come to pick me up and drop me off upon returning.
What I got was an OPAL Diesel, 5 speed with the shifter on the left. steering on the right.  I felt I had to learn how to drive all over again.  And the roundabouts!  Between keeping left, reading signs, shifting on the left and going through roundabouts clockwise, I knew this was going to be another personal challenge.  Forget about reading maps or taking your eyes off the road a an instant.  But I did it with only once forgetting and driving on the right.  No incident.  Just a quick reminder to stay focused on the road.

So I left from Naas, the town that rented the car and drove on the expressway to Cork and on to the beginning of the Beara Peninsula to stay the night in Kenmare.  I'd met a woman who owned and operated a gluten free bakery out of her home who lived in Kenmare.  She was Manuela from the market at Milltown where I went with Lorna from the Phoenix Restaurant.  I called Manuela and planned to meet downtown Kenmare that night.

Kenmare is a tourist town.  The main street is short and full of people going in and out of the shops and sitting on the sidewalks drinking and eating outside the cafe's.  I had made a reservation for a room that night above O'Donnabhain's bar and restaurant which turned out to be a perfect location.  Kenmare was a lovely town with nice restaurants and whole food grocery stores.  But I was looking forward to seting out the next morning to see more of the "country" which was to be "The Beara Peninsula".

I was up and out at 7 a.m. which proved to be very wise as people in Ireland don't even begin to move around until 10 or 11 a.m.  There was nearly NO ONE on the road.

The one and only main road going around the Beara from north to south was for the most part a one-lane wide road with trees and brush growing into the road on both sides.  This road was not traveled by buses---ever.  If I was to meet a car coming in the opposite direction, I would have to stop, pull way over and wait for them to go by.  The road out to the tip of the Beara was entirely like this.  Apparently buses with tourists must go the southern route as the roads there were much wider as I would experience later that day.
Because I left the hotel so early (way before breakfast was served), I wanted to find a place to get a cup of coffee.  Nothing.  Anywhere.  Which brings me to Josie's Cafe'.

I came upon a sign saying "Josie's Cafe"  coffee served.  Open.  7km.  7km on this road?  But it did say it was open and it was getting to be 10 a.m..  All I wanted was a coffee.  So the road to the left I took.  Then I came upon some cows in the road just staring at me and I at them.  I waited and waited.  Then the farmer came up...very friendly.... and gestured me to pass as he kind of waved his cows to move over.  I asked if he knew if Josie's Cafe' was open.  He just proceeded to tell me how to get there.  So I continued  until I came upon PADDY.  Quite a chatty and friendly Irishman who chuckled and said that Josie was his 'ex' and he would call over there to ask if she would serve me a cup of coffee.  After about 15 minutes of conversation back and forth, I headed towards Josie's.  Outside the sign said 'open'.  At the door of the cafe', the sign said 'open'.  But the door was locked and no one was to be found.  Before getting to Josie's,  I met Mary, Josie and Paddy's daughter jogging and she said to come over and she would give me a coffee.  I got there before Mary so walked behind the house and found Josie hanging out laundry.  She gave me coffee while I sat outside overlooking a most beautiful lake.  Calla lilies, 5 feet tall, were in full bloom everywhere.  It was a lovely, serene, almost deadly quiet place but apparently alive at night with dinner guests.  The menu looked amazing with steaks and seafood and homemade desserts.  Definitely a place I would come back to.  And they had 1 B&B room to rent.  I met one of Mary's granddaughters, Rachel, 6, who was too shy to speak but told Catherine, her mom to make me a pancake like she had.  It was actually 2 small pancakes with strawberry jam in between.  And they sent me off with a coffee to go, a scone with butter and jam, a jar of homemade strawberry jam and the filled pancake.  I was happy to have met a very nice Irish family with the friendliness that makes me want to go back.

So off I went back to the main road only to meet Paddy, waiting for me at the end of his driveway.  He waved me down to ask all about myself and how I ended up in Ireland and what I was doing there.  After a few minutes of this chatting, he invited me up to his house so he could show me his house and garden.  What he wanted was me to come work for him as a workawayer.  I said I was all booked up.  Then he told me to wait 15 minutes as he wanted to talk more and take me in my car all around the Beara.  I didn't know quite what to say or do.  He went in to take a shower!!  And shave!!  I yelled in to him saying I had to leave.  He said "give me 2 more minutes".  So he kind of wormed his way in to my car, with his border collie, Gin, and with all the charm he could muster, and proceeded to direct me to the different out-of-the-way places on his homeland.  He was very nice.  Didn't ask for anything (money) and said I could drop him off at the end of the mountain road and he would call his daughter to pick him up.

Friday, June 20, 2014

Life at Dollardstown B&B

I live on the third floor in my own room.  It's a very large room so space is not an issue. But there's no bathroom up there.  On the second floor there are 3 lovely B&B rooms each with their own bathroom.  Also there are 2 additional rooms with a shared bath.  When we don't have a full house, I can use the shared bath (toilet and sink only).  We are not allowed to use the tub/shower.  It's only for guests.  So on the first floor is a bathroom with a shower and it is used by 6 of us.  It also has the washer and dryer in it. They are almost in constant use.  The dryer is only used for the guest towels.  Everything else is line dried.

We all seem to have jobs that we agreed we like to do.  Gianni because he's the only guy workawayer helps Andrew with the lawn and splitting wood.  Kerry cleans.  She is better at cleaning the rooms/bathrooms probably better than anyone I will ever meet.  But she will not do any gardening (weeding) or lawn mowing.  Basically nothing outside.  She doesn't cook either.  And she won't eat anything green.  No vegetables except carrots.  Maureen is gone now but when she was here didn't like to do the rooms.  She would cook (rarely), clean the kitchen and do gardening including splitting wood with Gianni.
I do everything.  During the past 2 days I've been mowing and mowing and mowing.  After I mowed myself to exhaustion, I take a shower, change clothes and bake scones for the new arrivals that day.  Then I start cooking dinner for all of us.  If I'm the one cooking dinner I get to say what time we eat.  It is usually around 7.  If Antoinette cooks, it'll be much later even though we all agree that we like eating early a lot better.  The past few  nights because the weather has been perfect, we take our plates outside to eat.  Andrew even barbecued meat on the grill.

Tonight a new 21 yr. old is coming.  Her name is Marissa.  She's flying in from the Czech Republic but she's from the U.S. and has been going to school in Sweden.  More on her later.

Occasionally, Andrew will work away from home, like today.  He is self employed as a landscaper.  Right now he's doing a job in Dublin so will be picking up Marissa at the Dublin airport. Kerry is away for 2 days taking a test in Cork for her upcoming Masters' degree program in Belgium which she'll start in Sept.

Sunday, June 15, 2014

Back to Dollardstown----Athy Ireland

Returning to Ireland

Before going to France, I had spent 3 days at Dollardstown B&B in Athy Ireland with my hosts Antoinette and Andrew.  So when it was time to leave France and return  to my next assignment, I at least knew there would be no surprises.
 Monday night before leaving France I received an email from the train company SNCF stating that all trains would NOT be operating for the entire day on Wednesday, the day I had tickets to travel.  I knew I had to somehow get to LaRochelle for my flight on Ryan Air by 3:00p.m. on Wed.  Without a computer these changes would have been impossible. Todd agreed to take me to Limoges that day (Tuesday) so I could get a train to LaRochelle and have to spend the night in LaRochelle so I could make my flight to Dublin the following day.  It is very strange that 4 out of 4 times I used the train system in France, I had 4 delays or in this case a full blown cancellation due to a train strike which according to locals happens frequently and only for 1 day.
So I said my goodbyes to Susie and Todd and Pongo at the train station in Limoges and headed to LaRochelle the coastal town that I took a real liking to on my way through when arriving in France 3 1/2 weeks earlier.
Since my plane didn't leave until 4 the next day, I had all day in LaRochelle.  It happened to be market day and even though I could not get any of the wonderful produce I saw for sale, it was a pleasure just walking through the market with all the fresh seafood, cheeses, breads, veggies, fruit and clothing.The flight left as scheduled at 4 p.m. with a full flight of mostly high schoolers returning to Dublin after a weeks long holiday in France.
Andrew met me at Dublin airport and after picking up Antoinette from work at 6, we all arrived back home in Dollardstown.  It was especially good to come back to a familiar home complete with 4 lovable dogs and 2 affectionate cats.  I would also be meeting for the first time, Maureen from St. Louis and Gianni from Italy who were also workawayers.  Kerry from Italy who was there during my last visit still remained.  So for the next week we had 4 workawayers to take care of a full house that weekend with a 50th birthday party/dinner.  Then the night before everyone checked in...I got sick.  I spent all day Saturday in bed with a head cold like I haven't had in a very long time.  Needless to say I felt very bad as to not be able to help with the party or the following cleanup.  But Antoinette being the gracious person she is, made me feel not so bad.
Maureen would be leaving the following Thursday for Iceland.  Gianni would be leaving on Wed. to go back home in Italy but would be returning to Dollardstown in Sept. to work.

Thursday, June 12, 2014

ON MY OWN IN THE FRENCH COUNTRYSIDE

My host, Susie, was generous enough to let me take her 5 speed Fiat anywhere I wanted to go for the day on Saturday.  So out came the map and she pointed out an area that she said she thought I would enjoy traveling to.

More later

Monday, June 9, 2014

PARIS!

PARIS IN 2 DAYS

After realizing that going to Paris was actually in the realm of my travels and a short 3 hour train ride away, I decided to bite the bullet and go. 
I haven't had the best of luck using SNCF, the train system here in France.  All 3 trips I've made ended up in some kind of delay but by popular opinion the SNCF usually runs smoothly with no tie-ups.  So I booked my train trip for June 2nd to Paris.  People around here of course talk about going to Paris like going to a big supermarket an hours' ride from home.  I knew this would probably my only chance to visit the city while on this European trip.
Being a Monday morning and the train originating much to the south of La Souterraine (my nearest train station) it ended up being very full by the time it made 3 more stops.  One young girl next to me spent at least a full hour with her makeup cases laid out in front of her, putting on makeup.  It was one of the most ridiculous things I've ever had to sit through.
The train left La Souterraine at 6:30 a.m. and reached Paris just before 9:30.
As soon as I got out of the very large train station at Gare D'AUSTERLITZ I was immediately on the River Seine.(SEN)  All along the river are walkways and bikeways catering to the pedestrian life here.  There were several bikers, walkers and runners utilizing the pathways along the river with easy access up to the main roadways where the traffic as you can imagine was very busy and fast moving.  But the roads being still narrow from many years ago seemingly worked very well considering the traffic in a densely populated city.  I learned that the metro system is widely used by occupants of Paris leaving no need for a car to get around and live here.
The busses are well marked and maps at every bus stop are again very well marked with the routes color-coded.  The metro system also has stations throughout the city with each stop named at the entrance to the underground subway.  The subways are very clean with trains arriving every few minutes.  Once down into the metro system, you can get on and off as many trains needed to get to your destination.  Once out of the subway station and up into the city, you must enter another ticket to re-enter the system.

A short walk along the River Seine I could see St. Michel Notre Dame.  The architecture of course as with all the architecture in Paris is wonderfully amazing.  The line of people emanating from the entrance, around the corner and down the street to get into the Notre Dame was too much for me to consider as I wanted to see as much of Paris in this short time as possible.  Being not yet into the tourist season, there was still quite many tourists (many Asian) waiting to see this fabulous cathedral.

So onward I walked with map in hand determined to get to the Eifel Tower where I thought I wanted to spend some time just sitting and taking in all I could about just being in Paris.

Next major stop along the river was the LOUVRE.  Before getting there I saw the few bridges with "pad locks" locked into the chain-linked fences lining the bridges. Thousands of people "lock" a pad lock to the bridge with the intent of locking in their love for the person they're with.  I don't know when it started but it has led to many, many bridges now with the start of the pad lock fury that is well known in this city.

So... THE LOURVE...  Huge, beautiful building with the famed glass pyramid in the square outside the entrance.  Again I know I would need a whole day once entering the LOURVE to see all there was to see.  And from talking to people I learned that certain pieces like the MONA LISA would also have many tourists in queue and the wait time could be more than I could afford to spend.
But the parks and fountains and statues and gardens around the LOURVE are well worth strolling through and just taking in all the Paris around me.

Upon exiting the area of the park around the LOURVE, in the distance I could see the peak of the Eifel Tower.  So I continued my walk gazing with awe along the way all the beautiful architecture and still not able to fathom the work and hours spent in the manufacture of these 4-5 story buildings.  I could imagine the luxurious apartments that these buildings held with trees and park-like settings on the penthouses of each.

Upon walking up to the Eifel Tower, the souvenir stands and tourist stands got thicker and more congested.  In seeing pictures of the Eifel Tower somehow I had been picturing a much different image in my mind of what this was going to look like.
Suffice it to say, I saw the Eifel Tower, walked under it and left, not spending any time "taking it all in".  I had thought there would be a park-like setting.  Instead a major roadway ran under it!  And tourist busses lined the pathways around it and under it also.  Although I thought I wanted to go to the top of the tower so see all of the city from up high, I didn't.  Now I just wanted to find my way to my hotel up near the Champ-Elysees section of the city.  Being around all these tourists just made me anxious to go elsewhere.  The Champ-Elyees in Paris is very much like 5th Avenue in N.Y.C. with all the major designers and stores and shopping.  My hotel room was made in haste as I had not much time to get a reservation for the 1 night.  So I got on to the subway and figured out that I had to change trains once to get to the nearest station to my hotel, The Hotel Paris Saint Honore', 21 Rue de Penthievre.  I had it clearly marked on my map and felt sure I could find it.  I got off at the right train station but went down the wrong alleyway to get out.  So I was walking through this underground maze with many more trains going and coming.  By the time I figured out how to get out, I had walked actually up to the next station and came out being sort of lost.  I was in what looked like a whole other city but that's what Paris is like.  It's all these tiny cities within the big city.  I got to my hotel after walking about an hour which was just fine.  The person at the desk checked me in, gave me a key to a room on the top floor, the 5th.  There was a lift(elevator) that was only big enough for 1 person and maybe a small carry-on-sized suitcase.  It was a very old elevator with 2 doors that closed before moving.  It only went to the 4th floor.  I had to walk up to the 5th.  The top step of the spiral staircase was the step that went into my room.  So stepping out of my room was actually stepping down on to the stairway.  It was an odd shaped room with only room for a twin bed and a sink.  The toilet room was down the hall a bit as well as the shower room next to the toilet room.  I immediately opened the very tall windows that looked out on to the street below.  It was an ok room good for 1 night.  I felt lucky to have gotten any room in such short notice.
That evening I walked and walked until I just couldn't walk any more.  The areas where I walked consisted of shops and Brassieres where it looked like young people met for drinks after work.  Many had outside seating and everyone was dressed in beautiful professional-styled clothes.
After looking over a few menus posted on the sidewalks, I opted for a mesclun salad and 2 glasses of white wine for dinner.  They serve a bowl of green olives with drinks.  Tomorrow I would wake up in Paris with a whole new day of exploration ahead of me.  I went back to my room, exhausted.  It stayed light until 10:30 p.m.
The next morning I walked back down to the river and again all around and through the park and gardens of the LOUVRE which was closed that day because it was Tuesday.  I walked on the opposite side of the river and ended up at one of two islands in the river.  There were lovely apartment buildings on the island with one roadway accessing it.  Within a few minutes, being the island is very small, I was again in the middle of another little city and area called the BASTILLE.  
That afternoon I decided to go to the Montmartre section of Paris. I'd heard it was the highest point in Paris and I'd be able to look out over the whole city from up there.  Two trains later, I was looking over Paris at a cafe' set on a hillside.  This seemed like so much better than being in a crowded staircase or elevator going to the top of the Eifel Tower.  I walked to the very top of Montmartre which is the name of the town in that area.(Still all part of Paris)  At the very top was a huge cathedral overlooking the whole city.  I was very happy I chose to come here.
Being that my train back to La Souterraine was leaving at 4:30, I thought it best to find my way to the Metro to figure which trains to take to get back the GARE (train station).
All in all it was a whirlwind 2 days but I saw a lot of Paris and if I ever come back will take more time to see a few things in more depth.  I am very glad to have come to Paris!

Tuesday, May 27, 2014

THIS AND THATS

The carpenter couldn't get here until after 10 a.m. to start work because he had to go to the post office.

Although this tiny little town of Le Grand Bourg has one restaurant (pizza), one church, one tiny grocery store and nothing else, it has 2!! hair dressers.

A friend, Clare, in the next town of Benevent has a B&B and one day last week 2 people showed up at the door with 2 donkeys for the night.

The one day that I was scheduled to travel back to Ireland, there was a one day rail strike.
That makes 4 out of 4 times I had train trouble.  One trip there was an hour and a half delay because of a fallen tree on the tracks.

The trunk of a car is called "the car boot".  They have car boot sales.  Like tag sales to us.

To sleep late is to have a "lie in".



more later